Choisir son Costume

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Costume de mariage : aidez votre homme à bien le choisir

Si la tradition le veut sobre et neutre, en second plan derrière la star du jour (vous, bien sûr), les tendances lui attribuent peu à peu des couleurs, des excentricités et offrent plus de liberté pour le composer. Entre redingote, costume trois-pièces, haut-de-forme et autre jaquette, nous vous guidons dans la jungle du costume de marié.

Les différentes formes de costume

Le jour J approche et Jules n’a pas encore choisi son costume ? Impossible, pour lui, de s’y retrouver parmi les différents modèles ? Pas de panique ! Voici l’inventaire des formes et des usages pour les costumes :

  • L’idéal : le costume trois-pièces.Le costume trois-pièces, composé d’une veste, d’un pantalon et d’un gilet, est tout indiqué pour un mariage. La veste se porte ouverte sur un gilet assorti à la pochette. Attention, on évite le nœud papillon avec ce costume, au risque de passer pour le serveur.
  • L’option originale : le smoking.Le smoking pour un mariage est une tendance très américaine qui convient lorsque la robe de la mariée est très habillée ou si le thème est très chic. Vous reconnaissez votre mariage dans cette description ? Alors, osez ! Pour un look original, vous pouvez aussi miser sur la jaquette : elle revient en force. Portée avec un pantalon de smoking et un gilet, elle donne un côté désuet-chic au marié. Autre option : la lavallière.
  • Pour un mariage chic : la queue de pie.Votre mariage se déroule dans un château et toute la haute société est réunie autour de vous ? La queue-de-pie est de mise lors des très grandes cérémonies. À noter : dans la tradition, les pères et témoins doivent revêtir le même costume.
  • À éviter : le costume de ville.À deux ou trois boutons, croisé ou droit, le costume de ville est le genre de tenue qui peut se porter au bureau. Il n’est donc pas vraiment recommandé pour le costume du marié, sauf si le thème est « décontracté ».

Evitez les faux pas 

Définir la forme du costume du marié est une première étape, viennent ensuite les codes et les tendances du port de costume. Eh oui, il est possible de commettre un faux pas en matière de costume pour marié ! Tout d’abord, celui-ci doit être ajusté à la perfection, tout comme une robe de mariée. Pour vous en assurer, vérifiez quatre points fondamentaux.

Les épaules représentent l’élément structurant, clé du costume. Pour s’assurer que la veste est à la taille de votre futur époux, la couture doit se trouver exactement à l’endroit où plie l’épaule.

Ensuite, la veste de costume doit avoir la bonne longueur. Pour la définir, il suffit de prendre comme repère les paumes de la main lorsque votre chéri a les bras le long du corps.

Le cintrage de la veste est lui aussi capital : il doit s’ajuster naturellement à la courbure du flanc et du dos sans serrer et sans faire de plis disgracieux, notamment autour du bouton.

Enfin, pour la longueur du pantalon, l’ourlet doit retomber sur les chaussures, de façon à ce qu’il n’y ait qu’un seul pli formé sur la jambe.

En plus de ces fondamentaux, vous devez également assortir les couleurs et les motifs des différents éléments du costume. Pour cela, basez-vous sur deux règles concernant les motifs : contrepoint des échelles et contrepoint des types. En d’autres termes, dans sa tenue, il faut toujours opposer des motifs de grande taille (pour la chemise) et des motifs de petite taille (cravate). De même, dans la plupart des cas, il faut associer des motifs différents entre eux (rayures/pois, motifs floraux/rayures…). Côté couleur, assurez-vous que la chemise ou la cravate ne jure pas avec votre robe de mariée. Pour un côté décalé, vous pouvez oser le dépareillé en portant un pantalon de couleur et une veste et un gilet coordonnés. En règle générale, commencez toujours par choisir la cravate, la jaquette ou la lavallière pour définir le ton du costume.

Où choisir le costume du marié et à quel prix ? 

Par définition, un costume en bonne et due forme est un investissement en soi. Dans le commerce , aujourd’hui, vous pouvez trouver votre bonheur, quels que soient vos moyens, à travers trois familles de costume : le prêt-à-porter, la demi-mesure et la grande mesure. L’avantage indéniable du costume prêt-à-porter est son prix (à partir de 150 € jusqu’à plus de 1 000 € pour les grandes marques) mais il convient uniquement aux hommes qui ont une taille moyenne et des mensurations standards.

Depuis quelques années, une forme de sur-mesure « accessible » a fait son apparition : la demi-mesure industrielle. L’approche est presque identique au sur-mesure traditionnel : on choisit un style (tissus, doublure, coupe, type de col…) et on prend les mesures. En revanche, le tailleur va adapter un patron préexistant aux mensurations du client. La découpe et la confection vont ensuite se dérouler en usine. Cette méthode conjugue alors un prix convenable (750 €-1 300 €) et un tombé parfait. Si vous souhaitez opter pour la grande mesure et faire confiance à un artisan costumier, comptez au minimum 3 000 €.

 

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